Using The Attempt Timer : Endurance, Power Endurance & Limit Sessions
It takes some playing around to figure out what rest period works best for you. The KAYA attempt timer is an amazing tool that can help you zero in on your ideal rest time!
1. Endurance
Endurance is your body’s capacity to sustain climbing for an extended period. This type of climbing uses the oxidative energy system which kicks in after 2 minutes of work. This means to train endurance, you should be climbing longer than these initial 2 minutes.
Because of the extended climbing time, the intensity of the moves you perform should be low and sustainable. To keep your body using this energy system during a session, it’s important to take SHORT rests, generally around 30-60 seconds between sets.
2. Power Endurance
Power endurance is the ability to be explosive over an extended period of time. Because of the longer duration (30 seconds to 2 minutes), the moves performed are below your limit (about 2 grades below redpoint level).
Power endurance is an adaptation needed to execute longer boulder problems, shorter routes, and/or extended route crux sequences.
When training power endurance, rest times should be around 1-3x the amount of work time.
In this video, I’m performing the “5 minute drill” where I climb a boulder 3-4 times within 5 minutes. The boulder takes me around 30-40 seconds and I rest for about a minute in between.
3. Limit Bouldering
The goal of limit bouldering is to train strength and power, which means high intensity (90-100% effort) for shorter durations. This also means LONG rests. Not resting enough changes the energy system you are working and the adaptation you will achieve.
A general guideline is to rest anywhere from 20-50x longer than you are working. This could look like trying a really difficult move for 3 seconds, and resting about 150 seconds (2.5 minutes). Or giving a send burn for 30 seconds and resting 10-15 minutes.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Juliet Hammer | Coach | KAYA Collective Member
Juliet helps climbers of all levels gain confidence on and off the wall. A ‘lifer’, Juliet has been climbing since she was 10 years old, and is deeply passionate about creating pathways for People of color, especially women, to get into coaching and mentorship.