MEET THE MIND
WHO THE ‘F’ IS AUSTIN HOYT?!
Over here at KAYA, we watch our leaderboards with curiosity when we have a challenge or a competition in process.
We want to know who is crushing, who is chasing, and, if you’re our CEO, then you are checking to see how you match up against the best of them!
The Fall One was no different, there were big scores going up and some impressive ascents logged all over the globe … but there was one name that we hadn’t heard before that rocketed up the leaderboard with double-digit V grade sends.
Once he took the lead, he wasn’t caught again, and it left us all asking the question … who the ‘F’ is Austin Hoyt?
We figured we should sit down with him to find out more about The Fall One overall winner.
WORDS by LIAM LONSDALE, images as credited
LL: Austin, thank you so much for joining me today. Team KAYA was were blown away by your performance in The Fall One. You dominated this one from start to finish.
Tell us about your climbing … how and when did you start?
AH: Before climbing I raced BMX and dabbled in a bunch of other sports. Around five years ago I went to a gym called High Exposure for American Ninja Warrior, believe it or not. I saw the bouldering wall and pretty much gave up on Ninja Warrior straight away. I got on, and right away it came really natural to me. One of the coaches noticed me and put me on the team … I dropped all the other sports I was doing and I’ve been climbing ever since.
LL: Tell us about your local climbing situation.
AH: I live in suburban New York, right outside the city. I’m pretty lucky where I live, we have boulders around 20 minutes from my house that have some really hard problems. I’m able to get out there straight from school. When I want to have hard sessions I head to The ‘Gunks though.
In my garage I have two boards, a 40 degree and a 60 degree. My dad and I built it together. It’s not a world class board, but it does the job. 60 degrees gets you strong.
LL: And what about your climbing community?
AH: There is a small crew of four or five friends that I like to get out and climb with. I actually tend to climb my best when it’s just me and my dad.
LL: Why do you think that is?
AH: When it’s just my dad and I, I don’t know, I tend to climb a little bit more free, like, more creatively. I think when I am with a group I am less likely to try crazy beta and get sucked into trying the same methods as everyone else. When I am with my dad, I think a little more outside the box.
LL: You’ve got some hard repeats and a few first ascents to your name already? Where is the hook in climbing for you? Is it opening new blocs? Breaking new territory? Or something different?
Sharma Problem v13 (Taken by Craig Hoyt)
AH: For me, I’m less intrigued by the beauty of a line, and I am motivated by how hard I have to try. How physically demanding a climb is, how much it pushes my limits, I like trying really really hard, grabbing tiny holds, and that really draws me in.
LL: What would you say your is best climbing achievement so far?
AH: It’s difficult to pinpoint one moment, there are two blocs that I could say stand out though. I did my first V14 (8b+) a couple of month ago, it took me six sessions, it’s been a huge goal of mine for as long as I can remember, recently, a couple weeks ago in fact, I just added a new V13 (8b) to my home crag at The ‘Gunks and that was really special. I’ve always dreamed of contributing something really hard to that crag. It was a cool experience to finally do it.
LL: Who inspires you?
AH: I’m really inspired by the hometown heroes. I really look up to legends like Obe [Carrion] and Dave [Graham], also Andy Salo and Paul Jung who have done so much development in The Gunks. My coach Charlie Schrieber really pushes me and keeps me psyched.
LL: I know you had a Rocklands trip that was cancelled due to the Covid travel restrictions. Is there anywhere else that you really want to climb?
AH: There’s one bloc in the USA that I really want to get back to. It’s called Squoze, it’s a V15 (8c) in Red Rocks. I did all the moves on it in a session last year, and I am dead set on getting back and trying to send.
Outside of the USA I am really drawn to Fontainebleau, I mean, it’s an obvious choice, but I feel like I have to go. Everybody has to go, right?
LL: 100% yes. Everybody needs to go to Fontainebleau. Other than sending Squoze, what does success in climbing look like for you?
AH: A huge goal of mine is to bring a V15 to The Gunks. I want the NE bouldering scene to be a permanent fixture on the map of hard climbing. Does that count?
LL: Yes. That counts. Ha. What do you do when you’re not climbing?
AH: Well, right now I’m in school full time. But since the lockdown we have doing remote schooling which has meant that I can train more and even take some classes at the boulders which is awesome. I also work as a coach and a setter at the climbing gym, High Exposure, too.
LL: Well Austin, it seems like you have a bright climbing future ahead of you. Keep charging! We are excited to see what you do with the KAYA platform in the future.
AH: Thanks so much, and thanks for the opportunity to chat today.
FIND AUSTIN ON KAYA
Austin Hoyt is sponsored by: Beta Labs, Butora, Ranger Ready, Decoy Climbing Holds, Gunks Apps, Get Stokd.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
The Author at Castle Rock, CA | 2019 © Alton Richardson