We developed two new training tools for you, anchored around the concept of making the most of every session. We are proud to introduce: Session Intensity measure and Session Timer.

“I do one of every grade, until I project.”

– Alotta Clymers 

Session Intensity

It’s a safe bet to say that every climber wants to climb better. It’s also a safe bet to say that seldom few climbers actually know how to make meaningful improvements by training. We get lost in the numbers, and the myriad of information. Stress cycles and rest cycles, load management, and tapering, what does it all mean? 

We worked with coaches Natasha Barnes and Simon Moore to develop the Session Intensity measure and visualization, to help you to get into the optimal workout zone.

SESSION INTENSITY:

HOW WE WORK IT OUT

Using the top grade you’ve logged in KAYA, we calculate three different zones:

• Warmup: 0-70% exertion

• Hard: 70-90% exertion

• Limit: 90-100% exertion

If the top grade you’ve logged in KAYA is V10, V0-V6 would show as Warmup climbs, V7-8 as Hard, and V9-V10 would show up as Limit. Hard is your optimal intensity zone, always shown in signature KAYA green.

The visualization updates real time during your session as you add climbs to it, so you can keep track of the volume of your climbing, and the zone in which you are operating. Reviewing this information, post-session gives a more in-depth look.

SESSION INTENSITY:

HOW TO USE IT

Volume and Intensity are the two controls that tune your sessions to the gains you are trying to achieve. 10 tries on climbs in your green “Hard”  zone, and a few goes at a limit project will build strength. 20 blocs in the warmup zone will build endurance and capacity.

If you’re feeling fatigued, browse your session history … do you notice many sessions where the bulk of climbing is in the White limit “Project” Zone? It’s probably time to back off and have a few lighter sessions.

Imagine you are planning a big project send on the weekend … closely monitor your sessions through the week to ensure they are tranquilo, climb a few laps in the green zone but not too many. Come the weekend you’ll be rested, and ready for your best-go-send-go. ALLEZ! 

“I climb, and fall, and climb, and fall, and keep repeating until my forearms give up. I find it hard to rest for long enough between attempts …”

– Menny Klymers

Session Timer

Being patient enough to rest properly between attempts is a constant battle.

Everybody is different, but most of us need around 5 minutes, sometimes more, before trying a bloc at our limit after a failed attempt. Rest duration is also a great tool to help build increased fatigue for training effect. Session Timer makes it easy to keep track of time between each attempt.

SESSION Timer:

HOW TO USE IT

Session Timer is easy. Two clocks fire up as soon as you start to log a session. The upper clock is your ‘current’ rest, every time you log another attempt the clock resets itself. The lower clock is your ‘main' session clock, showing your total session duration. The clock stops when you end the session.

STEP-BY-STEP: IN THE APP